Rear anti-sway bar

[Tony Radford]

I would like to hear from folks who have added that rear anti sway bar after having driven without one first. Ever since I upsized by rear tires, I get rubbing on hard turns. How much of a difference does having the bar make? Do high speed turns seem more stable? Does the ride seem harder in general?

[ralphscott]

Tony -- It make a lot of difference. With a good 4 wheel alignment and front and rear sway bars it is like the car is on rails. I went 2 years without the rear sway bar then installed one.

Hope this helps

Ralph

PS no more rear tire rubbing either on hard turns

[eliminator]

[thumb]Personally, I would not drive my car without a rear sway bar....period.

A front and rear sway bar are a must on these cars then the next thing is having both properly adjusted. If they are out of adjustment, it's just one step away from not having one.

[RJacobsen]

OK Rick, I'll be the one to ask, How do you adjust the sway bar? :confused:

[eliminator]

Rod,

I think you already know!!

1) Just like a lot of other things when it comes to the suspension and adjustments on these cars, the ride height has to be established. If your ride height has changed then the sway bar adjustment has probably changed.

2) Start on a good level surface, or if you are so lucky to have access to a lift, (they are set up level).

3) A properly adjusted sway bar is in a neutral mode, no load. This is true for the front and or rear sway bar. Each is independent of the other.

4) What this means if you take one of the bolts out of the eye of the sway bar that goes through a heim joint that is adjustable,(there are two joints on each end of the front and rear sway bars). The bolt should easily slide out and slide back in, everything is lined up in a neutral position.

5) Unless you have had the sway bar adjusted before this is probably not going to be the case. Before I even started I would jack the car up and break all of the bolts loose, reinstall and just snug the bolts down. Drive the car get everything settled again before you start adjusting. The reason for doing this is that you are going to have to make the adjustment with the car on the ground as driven. Can't make the adjustment by jacking up the car. And as we all know these cars are low to the ground.

6) Reach up under the car (pain in the rear without a lift) and take the bolt loose from one end of the sway bar what I call the eye and see if it will slide out, (dosen't matter which side you start on) you will probably have to force it out because the other end of the sway bar is attached to the oposite wheels suspension and end of the sway bar is putting a load on this particular joint (either pushing this end up or pulling it down). Once you get the bolt out and try to slide it back in it is not going to go because now the sway bar is in a neutral mode (no load) position. The 2 heim joints have locking nuts, break one or both loose and adjust the heim joints on the threaded steel rod to lengthen or shorten the overall length, whichever is needed. When you have it where the bolt will easily insert back in the eye of the sway bar it is in the correct adjustment (neutral, no load).

7) Do this front and rear with the car on the ground and now the sway bars are adjusted correctly. I like to have the adjustments made so that the end of the sway bar with the hole it are pretty close to being in a horizontal poition. To acheive this you will probably have to take both ends off (each side) and adjust accordingly. When you are adjusting the threaded rod that the heim joints are on be sure that there is plenty of threaded rod going into the heim joint (this rod has rigth hand and left hand threads in order to lengthen it or shorten the ajusters).

8) After the first time it will be a simple procedure (still a pain in the rear) to get to everything. Sure like my lift when it comes to sway bar adjustment.:banana:

After all of this is time for a cold one...:BEER:

[Aggressor]

Rick is correct on the use of the rear bar.

Like the American Express commercial states - Never leave home without it!

The benefit is that it forms a link tying the side-to-side vertical movement of your rear suspension together. While the cornering ability is much enhanced, I also feel that it is a major factor in the great way that my car hooks up in straight line acceleration. Coupled with a Power-lock rear it becomes a bit harder to break the rear loose. When you get on it - Tail squats down -Headlights go skyward -Your future comes rushing at'cha. As they say in the old county - She just s$#s and gits.

Good call on the cold one. I'll have one also.
-Geary

[Tony Radford]

Well, if I can clear it with Dave Ramsey, I suppose I'll get one. Is it a bummer to install? Do you have to remove the back wheels? Is it best to place jack stands under the frame on either side?

[olblu66]

Tony--- You know what dave will say. Are you're baby steps completed and if so CASH ONLY .

[Tony Radford]

Pat, I already know I'd never get that one past him. But then he doesn't have a Cobra, which is about two knotches above crack addition. I figure I owe myself something since I chopped up my Visa, Bestbuy and Circuit City credit cards. Did you see my post on Club Cobra regarding the show mid month up at Melton's museum? I think Bill and Susan might show up. It's an awesome setting up near Road Atlanta. You've got to go.

[olblu66]

Is it a car show? Do you drive you're car there. Or do tou go see his cars? I've heard about his home in Gainsville.

[Tony Radford]

Go to the website: www.ernestallenbenefit.com and check it out. It's a car show, so bring the hanger queen.

[PhillipM]

Are there any recommendations on anti-sway bar size, where to buy, etc....? I am in the middle of my build now and would like to order one soon.


Thanks Phillip

[Tony Radford]

Phillip, Unique has them. The last time I spoke to Alan, he had at least one in stock. I'm sure that's the safest way to go, to make sure it's the right one. Since my wife is going through treatment for breast cancer, I've got to come up with some cash for the cancer-cure walk-a-thon that Unique is sponsoring. The sway bar will be the next investment. First things first.

[TurnpikeBoy]

Pull the Unique-installed, 3/4" front bar and put it on the back with its' bushings and brackets - use good self-tapping screws to mount the brackets, and get the rest of the hardware (Heim joints & studs) from Alan.

Then, get Alan to get you a 7/8" bar for the front, with bushings and brackets. You won't believe the difference in handling....absolutely no more body roll, much sharper turn-ins.

Just went thru this, this past winter. Had to get the bar from Addco, who hose you price-wise and neglect to install proper end-link bushings. After an angry letter and providing the bushings, they re-drilled and installed the bushings and it finally got in. Well worth the efforts and time.




-Roger

[PhillipM]

Tony, first and foremost you and your family are in our prayers. I spoke to Alan Wednesday and I think I will get the car done first before adding an anti-sway bar. See how it feels on the road because I have never driven basically a race car for the street. Then once I am ready, give Alan a call and order one.

Roger, thanks for the information. I have put your helpful advice in a text file for future reference. I do that from time to time to assist my failing memory.


Thanks for the helpful advice.

Phillip

[Tony Radford]

Thanks Phillip. She's doing real well and we only pray that it stays gone. If it's not a cash issue, I would install the bars during the build. It will be much easier and from everything I've heard, it's a highly beneficial upgrade. My car does roll quite a bit in hard turns and I think it would be awesome to make it track like a go kart. I had my suspension adjusted by J3 Motorsports here in Atlanta and the bars would probably take it to a whole new level. Roger's idea sounds compelling. It looks like the front bar might be hard to get off of an assembled car though.

[sllib]

Question: How would a 7/8" bar effect the already-miniscule clearance between the bar and a Spal fan?

[Glenview289]

Tony,
Use this link to a thread ( http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5473 ) to see a picture of our car, Brian & Bill Carlsons 289 FIA, at the point when we attached the rear sway bar. As you can see, it is much easier with everything exposed and I would definately recomend doing it now rather than later. You obviously will have the rear end and half shafts attached. The threaded inserts are drilled and tapped (hammered) into the frame and then welded. After that, the assembly is pretty much straight forward. It is critical to get the sway bar adjusted correctly as Rick describes so well above. Other pictures show the sway bar and the heim joint attachment components. We also beefed up our front sway bar to 3/4". We changed the mounting brackets to give us more room for the fan that we had and also moved the radiator. This may not be required, but was in keeping with our motto to over engineer if ever possible. If you look at the thread carefully, you will see that we spent that time modifying our chassis to what is the standard from Unique today. I have also attached a picture of our car at Hallet Raceway two weeks after Homecoming. This shows the affect of two 3/4" sway bars in a 70 mph left hand corner. The car handled great, with no surprises. We are even thinking of upgrading to 7/8" or 1". We were fortunate to be able to ride along in our car as a past pro BMW road racer and Skip Barber Racing instructor put it through paces. He was very impressed with the way the car was designed and handled, despite the fact that is was only 3 weeks old. (O.K.- 14 years and 3 weeks). A true testimonial to the Weavers!

[Tony Radford]

I was under the impression that the rear bar was a "simple" bolt-on upgrade. Is this not true on cars built in 1998? Upsizing the front bar doesn't appear to be an option for me. There is a three micron gap between my Spal puller and the existing bar.

[eliminator]

Tony,

With the necessary hardware it would be a bolt on application for your car. All the frames for some time now have the threaded inserts welded in the frame for the rear sway bar. All the Jag rear suspensions have the sway bar mounting brackets in place.

[TurnpikeBoy]

Tony, the front bar actually is very easy to get out of the car; once the bushings/clamps are unbolted, you have only to pull one bolt out of the Heim links at each end of the bar and then thread the bar out of the front end. Not hard to do....you will do some twisting and turning, but it is easier to do than describe.

As to inserts in the rear frame crossmember, well....Rick, I'm only one car ahead of yours (#9404) but there were no threaded inserts in mine, and I got the car in 2003. Then again, the car was bought without the rear swaybar, so maybe that's why. Nevertheless, it was a very, very simple matter to mark and drill two holes at each bushing location and use 3/8" self-tapping hex-head screws to mount the bushings and brackets. Yes, low-tech, but have proven more than adequate.

As to fan clearances, well...I haven't found a need yet for a puller fan - but. I did make 3/4" thick spacer blocks to lower the bigger bar at the front mounts, as the Addco bar didn't have the offset bend at the ends to provide for front framerail clearance (basically, it was bent such that it lays flat, one end to the other, on the floor - the standard-equipped 3/4" bar has a dogleg bent into the ends that props the ends of the bar up off the floor). I don't know if this would put the bar low enough to clear the fan motor, but likely would help some.

[eliminator]

Allen,

When did you guy's start putting the threaded inserts in all the frames?

Looks like it was 2003 or later. My car was ordered with a sway bar so I was good to go.

[davids2toys]

My car is a 93, I am also interested in the rear sway bar. I also already have the rear trailings arms upgrade.
Anybody care to chime in and the cost?
I did not know you take the front and put it in the back, what size would normally come in the back?
Dave

[Tony Radford]

Alan will put the kit together that includes everything you need to do the upgrade. The only real pain is knocking the shock out of the way to get the bolt in. I was able to do it without completely removing the shock at the lower connection. I removed the washer, reinstalled the nut (that is just on by a few threads) and moved the shock over to the nut. I ended up drilling and tapping the holes for the two straps using a fine thread 3/8" tap. You can put masking tape on the frame where the straps will be mounted and mark/drill the tape after you've located the four hole locations. It really makes a big difference in how the car corners. This will make it easier for my to roll mine in a high-speed turn.

[davids2toys]

Alan will put the kit together that includes everything you need to do the upgrade. The only real pain is knocking the shock out of the way to get the bolt in. I was able to do it without completely removing the shock at the lower connection. I removed the washer, reinstalled the nut (that is just on by a few threads) and moved the shock over to the nut. I ended up drilling and tapping the holes for the two straps using a fine thread 3/8" tap. You can put masking tape on the frame where the straps will be mounted and mark/drill the tape after you've located the four hole locations. It really makes a big difference in how the car corners. This will make it easier for my to roll mine in a high-speed turn.
Hey Tony,
Thanks for the info, sounds pretty easy. Cost? Will I be putting the front bar on the back as a few people have talked about?

[Tony Radford]

I think the front bar is the same size as what Unique recommends for the rear and a slightly larger one for the front improves performance a bit. So you can transfer the front bar to the rear and get the larger one for the front. I have the 16" Spal fan on the front and there isn't any room to increase the diameter of the front bar without hitting the fan. I just got another 3/4" bar for the rear. The kit runs $300.

[davids2toys]

I think the front bar is the same size as what Unique recommends for the rear and a slightly larger one for the front improves performance a bit. So you can transfer the front bar to the rear and get the larger one for the front. I have the 16" Spal fan on the front and there isn't any room to increase the diameter of the front bar without hitting the fan. I just got another 3/4" bar for the rear. The kit runs $300.
I just measured the front bar, it is 5/8 inch thick:confused: Is this possible, or are the others who mentioned 3/4 inch measurement mistaken?
I might need a front and rear sway bar...man, I am not liking this.
I also have 2 inches between the sway bar and the radiator, that fan you have must be huge! How thick is this thing. I don't have a fan on that side of the radiator, I have pusher fans on the front side.
Thanks for the pricing info, I will be putting all this stuff in my budget for the winter upgrades.
This going to be an expensive winter...Let's see, new sidepipes, front coilovers, fix ebrake, new ram air system(hopefully) installed, new tach, heater, smaller carb, and about 15 other things fixed or upgraded...Still will be fun though

[nolastyankee]

David,
5/8 is the standard MGB sway bar which is used on front end of the Unique roadster. (The entire original front suspension on Uniques was full MGB. The unit transferred easily to the rear because of track width and simple bar design) A sway MGB bar can be procured in varying diameters between 5/8" and 1" and larger by special order through any MG performance house. What you have on your car may either reflect the previous owner or what was being spec'd by Unique at the time. The front bar can go to the rear without issue, it is the same bar. 1/8" diameter in a sway bar will not be noticed unless your suspension is already perfectly dialed in. (Very few Cobra suspensions are - including ours)

The cost of the rear sway bar kit from Unique is not the bar itself, that can be purchased from any number of places for $90. It is the hardware, design, and customer service that drive the price.

BTW, the slimmest of electric puller fans is about 2" thick with the high performance models running between 3" and 4". If you are making a list of projects, I'd place a SPAL fan on it near the top. There is not a lot of surface area or shrouding on those pusher fans to keep the car cool in traffic!

[davids2toys]

Hey Brian, thanks for the info. So what would be the hot and most cost effective setup then. I plan on new coilovers in the front( I just did all 4 in the back), do the sway bars, and then just what you said. Have it professionally dialed in perfect.
As far as the fan goes, the pushers are not bad, but I agree, could be alot better. How much is this SPAL fan you are talking about?
So assuming to leave room for a 2 inch fan, what is the best to use in the front. Now, if I was going to stay with my current fan setup(no puller fan), what would be the best bar in the front.
As far as the back, what would be the best size? If I used the front bar, is the whole thing, adjustable ends and all transferable to the back. Would I need anything more?
Dave



David,
5/8 is the standard MGB sway bar which is used on front end of the Unique roadster. (The entire original front suspension on Uniques was full MGB. The unit transferred easily to the rear because of track width and simple bar design) A sway MGB bar can be procured in varying diameters between 5/8" and 1" and larger by special order through any MG performance house. What you have on your car may either reflect the previous owner or what was being spec'd by Unique at the time. The front bar can go to the rear without issue, it is the same bar. 1/8" diameter in a sway bar will not be noticed unless your suspension is already perfectly dialed in. (Very few Cobra suspensions are - including ours)

The cost of the rear sway bar kit from Unique is not the bar itself, that can be purchased from any number of places for $90. It is the hardware, design, and customer service that drive the price.

BTW, the slimmest of electric puller fans is about 2" thick with the high performance models running between 3" and 4". If you are making a list of projects, I'd place a SPAL fan on it near the top. There is not a lot of surface area or shrouding on those pusher fans to keep the car cool in traffic!

[nolastyankee]

David,
You can get a SPAL fan for about $75 or so for the slimline one, they go up from there depending on CFM. Without re-engineering your sway bar and/or radiator bracket you will be stuck with the slim fan. I have one for sale that will fit and I have the optional mounting tabs too. Look at the garage sale thread I posted a couple months back.

For the sway bar my opinion (I'm sure others may differ) would be to go with a 7/8" bar up front. If you are looking to track or autocross you may want to bump up to 1". Going to the 1" bar I would also suggest taking a serious look at the standard factory end links since they are designed for the OEM thickness.

Professionally dialing in the suspension will be a significantly cost intensive exercise since these cars are hand built and one-off in terms of their components and quality of assembly/maintenance. You will want to do lots of reasearch on your own so that you can reference the experts and utilize their time effectively. If you want to simply 'drop off the car and pick it up with perfect suspension' be prepared for a HEFTY bill! Changing the camber on the rear end alone is a several hour job.

[davids2toys]

Brian,
I took a look at your garage sale thread. I presently have the 2 pusher fans, would you know what they do for cfm, I turned them on and put my hand to the back of the radiator, I felt air, but nothing crazy. I wonder why they located them an inch away from the radiator?
I went to the link you provided also, it says it flowed 1300 cfm, is that a lot more than the pushers? It also says you can get this in a pusher model also, so why not do this on the other side of the radiator therefore eliminating the sway bar interferance problem...my guess is it would not look good when you look at the front of the car, am I right or am I way off base?
Can you leave the 2 pusher fans in place( I like the look) when installing one of these SPAL fans?
Also, which mounting tabs do you have for the fan you have for sale, they show 2 on their site.

7/8 is what I had in mind also(from reading threads). I just meassured again to the radiator I have exacly 2 1/8 from the 5/8 sway bar, so 7/8 means I would lose an 1/8 clearance to the radiator, leaving me with 2" exactly, would the 7/8 bar work with your fan? Also, would your fan be a drastic improvement over the 2 fans I have now?

My radiator is slightly canted forward at the top, if you were to relocate the radiator forward, would you have to maintain the present profile, or could I go straight up and down?

I asked you this in my last post:
"As far as the back, what would be the best size? If I used the front bar(5/8), is the whole thing, adjustable ends and all transferable to the back. Would I need anything more?"

Would the 5/8 in the back be compatible with 7/8 in the front? Earlier in this thread Tony said slightly larger in the front, if I am only 5/8 in the front now, and I move it to the back, perhaps I should get a 3/4 inch for the front instead of the 7/8, that would be moving up one size instead of two, plus it would leave a little more room for the fan. What do you think??

Thanks for the advice about dialing the car in. I brought it down to a well known guy here last year, he has a great reputation with local racers...his charge was 80.00 per hr. and I believe he said it should be no longer than 2 to 3 hrs. that was to dial everything in, and squaring everthing up, perhaps I misunderstood him! Well I guess I will find out(ouch) when i am ready:D

Dave

[davids2toys]

Just found this thread, how interesting

[Tony Radford]

The twin pusher fans are for decoration and do little to cool the engine. The Spal (or equivalent) is essential unless you live in Iceland. The 16" Spal seems to be the defacto standard as the optimum product for the unaltered Unique (standard sway bar and radiator location). I have both. Personally, I think putting the fan on the outside is destracting and terribly unattractive (IMHO). Unless you are a racer, get the standard rear bar from Alan, add the Spal and motor on!

[davebetts]

I have owned our Unique Cobra for five years now. Just ordered and installed the rear sway bar two months ago. Ordered it from Maurice. It arrived complete with everything you need, right down to the black power coating, joints, bolts and washers. Absolutely a bolt on senerio. Had to run a tap, to clean the pre threaded holes, in the chassis. Then bolt the pieces in and adjust to nuetral.
How does it feel? Having both road raced (Pocono North Track) and autocrossed without, I cannot belive the difference. I have not raced since the install, but I can tell you this. The car has transformed from a flying canon ball into a guided missle. The car "hangs in" in the corners and most impressively, recenters itself when it comes out of a manuver. Gives alot more stability and predictability.
Worth every penny. And a pleasure to receive parts that not only fit, but work so well. I know it seems that my posts rave about the Weavers, but if the shoe fits.
Buy the bar and install it!

[nolastyankee]

David,
To reiterate something I said once before, these cars are one-off and there is truly no single correct answer. Your most important research tool is your own ability to gather facts and decide what is best for your application - be wary of taking a solution straight across to your car since you will most certainly be dealing with different variables.

That said, you need a SPAL fan to cool the radiator. The pushers are functional decoration that are bred from a time in automotive history before the SPAL fan. Had Carroll had access to a SPAL fan there would have never been pushers on a Cobra. (Opinion) The 2" slimline fan is standard fare for cars without modified radiator mounts. We totally re-engineered our mount and now have a perfectly vertical radiator but strap in for some work if you go that route. The 2" SPAL will fit fine as is and I would not worry fan clearance with a larger bar. These cars are simply not so precise that 1/8" radius will make or break an install.

My recco on the 7/8" bar is opinion more than science. Any bar will work fine and your car's performance will be much more influenced by your baseline setup than selection of parts. Until you have the right springs, damping/rebound, and perfect alignment a 1/8" difference in sway bar diameter is splitting hairs.

[davids2toys]

The twin pusher fans are for decoration and do little to cool the engine. The Spal (or equivalent) is essential unless you live in Iceland. The 16" Spal seems to be the defacto standard as the optimum product for the unaltered Unique (standard sway bar and radiator location). I have both. Personally, I think putting the fan on the outside is destracting and terribly unattractive (IMHO). Unless you are a racer, get the standard rear bar from Alan, add the Spal and motor on!
Yes Tony, I would agree, installed in the front would look like dog****!
So when you say 16 inch, you are talking about the slim line right?
Also, when you say standard rear bar from Allen, what size is this?
We were talking about putting the front onto the back, I am 5/8 in the front right now.
What is the max size sway bar you can put in the front, with the spal fan, and the aluminum radiator?

[davids2toys]

I have owned our Unique Cobra for five years now. Just ordered and installed the rear sway bar two months ago. Ordered it from Maurice. It arrived complete with everything you need, right down to the black power coating, joints, bolts and washers. Absolutely a bolt on senerio. Had to run a tap, to clean the pre threaded holes, in the chassis. Then bolt the pieces in and adjust to nuetral.
How does it feel? Having both road raced (Pocono North Track) and autocrossed without, I cannot belive the difference. I have not raced since the install, but I can tell you this. The car has transformed from a flying canon ball into a guided missle. The car "hangs in" in the corners and most impressively, recenters itself when it comes out of a manuver. Gives alot more stability and predictability.
Worth every penny. And a pleasure to receive parts that not only fit, but work so well. I know it seems that my posts rave about the Weavers, but if the shoe fits.
Buy the bar and install it!
Hey, you rave about what you believe in, I get physiced up just reading about the handling in your car, that is what I want in the end!
That kit sounds great, did it come with the bar? Somebody said it didn't. If yes, what was the thickness?
I don't believe I will have any holes, mine is a 93!
Hell, I don't even know where or how it hooks up, maybe it will come with a picture or two, or directions...lol

[davids2toys]

David,
To reiterate something I said once before, these cars are one-off and there is truly no single correct answer. Your most important research tool is your own ability to gather facts and decide what is best for your application - be wary of taking a solution straight across to your car since you will most certainly be dealing with different variables.

That said, you need a SPAL fan to cool the radiator. The pushers are functional decoration that are bred from a time in automotive history before the SPAL fan. Had Carroll had access to a SPAL fan there would have never been pushers on a Cobra. (Opinion) The 2" slimline fan is standard fare for cars without modified radiator mounts. We totally re-engineered our mount and now have a perfectly vertical radiator but strap in for some work if you go that route. The 2" SPAL will fit fine as is and I would not worry fan clearance with a larger bar. These cars are simply not so precise that 1/8" radius will make or break an install.

My recco on the 7/8" bar is opinion more than science. Any bar will work fine and your car's performance will be much more influenced by your baseline setup than selection of parts. Until you have the right springs, damping/rebound, and perfect alignment a 1/8" difference in sway bar diameter is splitting hairs.
I hear you Brian, also understand, that is exactly what I am doing...attempting to gather facts and knowledge, learning from others, etc, etc. I much rather do things right the first time instead of doing the I should ofs, wasting time and money! Both of which I am short on.
It is also the same when I am helping someone out with something I have done already, right down to part numbers and all aspects of the install, including mods, pitfalls and questions.
I am pretty new to the Cobra game, so please try and understand.
Dave

[eliminator]

HINT:
Sway Bar Mount:doh: Amazing what can be found!!:banana:

[davebetts]

Yes, the kit from Unique Motorcars did include the bar (powder coated black - to boot). The bar size is 5/8", just as my front sway bar. TIP: take a 5/8" open end wrench and push it over the front bar to check. Just an easy/quick way to measure a diameter. I also have a Spal puller fan behind the radiator and it just fits without hitting the front sway bar.

[nolastyankee]

Just an FYI on MGB sway bars, although they are often finished they are generally not powder coated. There are rubber bushings in the end-links that would not survive well in the oven. The bars I have seen (including the ones we bought, one from Unique and one aftermarket) were both basic black rattle can finish. We sanded them down and hit them with POR 15 which is both attractive and ridiculously flexible.

[davids2toys]

HINT:
Sway Bar Mount:doh: Amazing what can be found!!:banana:
Fantastic...thanks!
Let me add, the underside of your car looks unreal. Very, Very NICE

[davids2toys]

Yes, the kit from Unique Motorcars did include the bar (powder coated black - to boot). The bar size is 5/8", just as my front sway bar. TIP: take a 5/8" open end wrench and push it over the front bar to check. Just an easy/quick way to measure a diameter. I also have a Spal puller fan behind the radiator and it just fits without hitting the front sway bar.
Thanks a lot

[davids2toys]

Just an FYI on MGB sway bars, although they are often finished they are generally not powder coated. There are rubber bushings in the end-links that would not survive well in the oven. The bars I have seen (including the ones we bought, one from Unique and one aftermarket) were both basic black rattle can finish. We sanded them down and hit them with POR 15 which is both attractive and ridiculously flexible.
I will remember this tip if mine come non powder coated.