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bstandley1
April 15th, 2008, 12:53 PM
I'm in the process of replacing my 4 gauge battery cables with some beefier gauge cables ...I'll miss the adrenalin rush of whether the car will start when hot ... Anyway, I noticed that my cut off switch is wired using the ground. Does it matter which cable is used for the shut off?

Also, I found a boat supply dealer selling 1/0 gauge tinned marine battery cables for $3.41 a foot. Would this work? Thanks!

Bob

Jim Harding
April 15th, 2008, 02:24 PM
I'm in the process of replacing my 4 gauge battery cables with some beefier gauge cables ...I'll miss the adrenalin rush of whether the car will start when hot ... Anyway, I noticed that my cut off switch is wired using the ground. Does it matter which cable is used for the shut off?

Also, I found a boat supply dealer selling 1/0 gauge tinned marine battery cables for $3.41 a foot. Would this work? Thanks!

Bob


Bob, the cut off switch can be in either the positive or negative lead. No problem there. Just be sure when you replace the cable to the starter solenoid that you also replace the negative one from the battery to the switch, and to frame ground. 1/0 should do the trick too. I'm not sure what kind of jacket covers the cable, just make sure if beefy enough not to easily chafe off and cause a short.

bstandley1
April 16th, 2008, 02:23 AM
Jim, thanks for the assistance. I'm going to replace all the cables and hopefully solve my hot starting problem.

Bob

eliminator
April 16th, 2008, 05:31 AM
I bough my cable at a local welding shop, the price is much better by the foot.

brfutbrian
April 16th, 2008, 07:31 AM
I bough my cable at a local welding shop, the price is much better by the foot.

did the same thing a couple months back. now if i could find some time to change it out. later, brian.

will butterworth
April 16th, 2008, 07:35 AM
replaced ground cable--used welding stock from local parts place, ran from battery in rear up to engine alum. head----starter-stock-302 still not turn engine over when hot--so replaced starter with hot little mini-gear reduction from simmit. Starter works fine now.About 161 bucks.Ya,ll should see how folks look at you when Joan has to push it off--one time her stockings came down over her shoes, boy she was mad.Running behind the car.Professor Vernon Von Studebaker even raises his lids. Will-alabama

scott h
April 16th, 2008, 01:33 PM
not sure why, but auto electrical specialists will tell you not to use welding wire, i think it is because of how very thin each strand is. I ran two grounds. 1 from batt. to frame and another from batt. to engine block where starter mounts. this advise was given by one of our members when i had my starting problems a couple of years ago no problems since.

eliminator
April 17th, 2008, 05:37 AM
No need to run 2 from the battery, run one from the battery to the frame, one braided ground wire(available at NAPA, different lengths) from the engine (back of the head is a good place) to the frame. Then be sure the steel dash, door mount cage is grounded to the frame. This can be a little tricky because it sits on fiberglass and the bolts underneath come up through fiberglass.

nolastyankee
April 17th, 2008, 10:47 AM
Agree with Rick, no need for 2 grounds. Most often the trouble is that the engine ground is too small for the starter load. An all steel frame will carry plenty of current, just need to jump it to the block with a sturdy enough cable. We have #1/0 cable from battery to frame, battery to starter solenoid, engine ground, and nothing smaller than #4 to any major system including the fuse panel. (I rewired our harness to accomodate)