trigo pins

[twanita]

does anyone know the correct thread size for the front wheel studs? i ordered 1/2" thread on trigo pins from so cal speed (they bought out trigo)and they appear wrong. btw,get the correct tool from them before trying to remove pins because they are easy to butch up. correct torque is 60 ft lbs. jim o

[Naumoff]

Ouch!:mad:

What happened?

I don't have the tool. Does it come with the wheels and adapters?
I had Lynn send my wheels to Unique.
Not sure but I think Unique uses GM Wilwood hubs.
I had called Vintage and inquired about 17" knock-off wheels and adapters. They said Unique uses GM front and Jag rear. GM and Jag use the same 5-4 3/4 bolt pattern. Lugs are different from what they said.

The outside diameter of the pins for Trigo are different sizes from Vintage.
But the adapters are the same.

Just passing on some info while I am thinking about it.

[twanita]

hi tony, the tool did not come with wheels but it is only $10. it is basically a hex like an allen wrench. i had bought a torx bit for impact wrench but teeth on trigo pins are shallow so 2 of them stripped when trying to remove. then i went to vice grips but outer surface is hardened. then bought a 3/4" stud puller at sears which qualifies as "tool of the year". i show all 3 tools below. jim o.

[RJacobsen]

Jim, thanks for the picture, I have PSI wheels on my car and they also have a very shallow area for the bit. That stud puller just got on my shopping list.

[twanita]

turns out the threads were 1/2-20 and i just had to chase them with a tap because of plating.

[eliminator]

All the Trigo wheels I have ever seen have allen wrench applications, there is no tool needed.

Why are you using a torque bit to remove allen head pin drive adapters??

Looks like thats the problem.

Also on the wheel studs, a great place to use a little anti-seize.

[Naumoff]

All the Trigo wheels I have ever seen have allen wrench applications, there is no tool needed.

Why are you using a torque bit to remove allen head pin drive adapters??

Looks like thats the problem.

Also on the wheel studs, a great place to use a little ant-seize.

Now you tell Jim after he found out the hard way. Rick you are a cruel man.;)

[twanita]

they really are serrated like a torx but you are right that an allen wrench will work. 2 of mine were just on too tight so i stripped them. i did use anti- seize this time and torqued to 60 lbs.

[nolastyankee]

Jim,
I know this comment may be a bit late, but Rick is correct. Trigo wheels install with an allen head wrench or bit. The pin for Trigo's is a 12 point to allow shallow angle adjustment of the wrench/bit. The 'tool' that Trigo provides with their kit is basically a 6 pt. allen wrench.

The install manual also suggests using red thread lock versus anti-sieze since there is virtually no need to remove the pins after installation.

As I re-look at your top picture your studs may be a little long too. Trigo acknowledges that studs may need to be cut down during install. Since the engagement of the allen bit is shallow the stud length is critical to ensure the correct torque without damaging the pin.

[twanita]

hi brian,yes the allen wrench tool from trigo works fine. i think they were torqued too high before which caused my problem. i don't think you should use red thread lock on the pins because you have to remove hub to get at spindle nut.
thanks, jim

[eliminator]

Jim you are correct, if you want to service the front wheel bearings you have to remove the pin drive adapter. The rear is the same story, to service the rear hub assembly, stub axle, ect. the pin drive adapter has to be removed. If you torque the screw on pins at 60-70 ft lbs they wont back off.
Red Thread Lock is some kind of CYA liability tool.

[nolastyankee]

Ahhh, yes, the wheel bearings are back there. Looks like we'll have to figure out how to break the red thread lock if we ever need to adjust. Either that or it will be adjustment using the "ship in the bottle" method.

[Naumoff]

Ahhh, yes, the wheel bearings are back there. Looks like we'll have to figure out how to break the red thread lock if we ever need to adjust. Either that or it will be adjustment using the "ship in the bottle" method.

Heat. But I wouldn't use a torch. I have a soldering iron made by Rigid for sweating copper. Clamps on the pipe and I think it would work great in this application without over heating the pin or the stud.

You can check a tool rental place to see if they have on.

I have anti seize on mine.