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homer
February 24th, 2007, 08:18 PM
I am in the process of getting my headers and sidepipes redone - I have a big block SA406 and cannot get the drivers side header out. It looks like my only option may be to cut back a bit of the wheel well. Moving the engine mount is not an option. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Brent
February 25th, 2007, 05:59 AM
Your only option is to remove the engine mount bolts and raise or tilt the motor over.

You say it is not an option however nothing could be easier than that (2 bolts) You do not need a lift or engine hoist you can do it with some 2X4s and a floor jack if you have a steel oil pan.

TurnpikeBoy
February 25th, 2007, 06:32 AM
.........or a bellhousing...........

homer
February 25th, 2007, 07:51 AM
Thanks - thought I needed an engine hoist to do it - where is the best place to jack up the motor? - I have a canton oil pan - doesnt look strong enought to support the load. Just to clarify I remove engine mount bolts from each side of the block then jack up the motor?

Aggressor
February 25th, 2007, 07:52 AM
I have done it and as Brent said, you must remove the engine mount bolts to raise and tip it over. I also removed the nuts from the tranny mount bolts. This allows for extra upward and rotational flexibility. I used 2x4's and jacked on my aluminum Cobra "T" pan with no problem. Unbolt your headers and sidepipes prior to any lifting attempts. Also, undo any connections that will be stressed by the lift such as electrical, fuel lines, oil lines, and coolant hoses. Watch your clearances to footboxes, firewall, etc. as the engine is raised and rotated. I forgot to disconnect my oil lines to my engine-mounted remote filter and ended up buying another filter mount from Finishline as it was bent from the chassis mounted #10 oil cooler lines. I found it is beneficial to remove the intake and cylinder heads for clearance. The nose of the engine was jacked skyward and it was rolled to each side to facilitate removal of the heads and loose headers. It is not a quick or easy process.

The reason I removed and replaced mine was for a warrantee redo on the JetHot finish. $200.00 for packaging materials and shipping plus all this removal/replacement effort ... for "Free" Warrantee work.
Some warrantee!!! (Sour Grapes)

The only positive thing was that I was able to powdercoat my intake and cylinder heads (iron gray) to match the engine while they were on the bench. It was a very good investment as the prior engine enamel was always burning off on the head exhaust flanges. After five years there is no oxidation of these areas and no rattle-can touchups.

Hope this helps
-Geary

homer
February 25th, 2007, 08:01 AM
thanks - I am in the same boat with my ceramic coating - after three years its pitted and begining to rust.

Aggressor
February 25th, 2007, 08:18 AM
Homer,
Back to sour grapes. The first image is what the public saw in 2003. The second is what one saw under the car. JetHot sent some lame documentation stating that the car shouldn't be parked on damp concrete and in damp areas. I have my own powdercoat shop and know that a properly prepared surface should not be subject to the rusting and lifting that I experienced. My vehicles are in a clean dry heated environment at no less than 58 degrees. Third image is enclosed.
-Geary

scott h
February 25th, 2007, 12:09 PM
my ceramic coating started flaking very soon. it turns out my header temps of about 1300 deg. were past to heat rating on the chrome look ceramic, i went with the high heat black which is rated over 2000 deg

homer
February 25th, 2007, 12:53 PM
just got the headers off - not something I look forward to again - has anyone had a good experience with jet hots sterling coating - I hope to avoid this process again.

pgermond
February 27th, 2007, 06:26 PM
I've been out of town for a while and just came across this thread. I've reviewed it with great interest. Good tips and suggestions - I have a BB and have been wondering (actually dreading) the day when I have to remove the headers, particularly on the driver side. I know it can be done (as homer has found out), but it is not something I look forward to having to do. No problems here with the ceramic coating.... just figure one of these days they are going to have to come off for some reason.

rdorman
February 28th, 2007, 05:51 AM
We have had great results from Aethetic Finishers http://www.afipowder.com/
tell them I sent you!

Consider welding in bungs for temp sensors while they are out... you never know!