Clutch and Brake Lines through the footbox

[daveg]

Given that we have a foot of snow on the ground (nothing like a Chicago winter) and my build will go until April, I am going to heed the advice of some of you and route the brake and clutch lines through the footbox and build a heat shield for the cylinders.

Maurice thought the wrapping the lines should do it but, if I have the time, why not? I have heard of a diagram Brent has out there but couldn't find it. Would love to have one of you post pictures or diagrams. Also - I thought I would just bend hard line to do this - what are some thoughts regarding flex line. I would think it would move as I applied pressure to the brake or clutch.

Any thoughts or suggestions on why or why not (and especially how)would be helpful.

Dave

[gasman]

Dave, I looked for the diagrams Brent faxed to me and couldn't find them. I'm sure they got discarded when that part of the job was completed. Send Brent a PM, he hasn't been on the thread much recently and may not see your post for a few days. His diagram is particularly good because he listed the A&N fittings you would need in each position. This is a definately a worth while thing to do.

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[Brent]

Hi Dave!

I will take pics and send you a list of parts and a drawing of the routing as soon as I can.

It does really clean up the engine compartment and I think it looks COOL.(-:

Maurice is correct, if they are insulated and the routing changed slightly they work just fine.



Brent
4279401
Candy Apple Red/White
402 FE/Toploader/3.54

[KrAzEcJ]

Brent, can you post it in the forum? If not can you cc me to? Thanks

Unique 4279459

[Brent]

I can post it, no problem.

Thanks guys!


Brent
4279401
Candy Apple Red/White
402 FE/Toploader/3.54

[pgermond]

I spent some time this past weekend re-routing, insulating and heat shielding my clutch setup. The picture I'm posting is crude because I had to use compression to post, but it may help (?) My original setup included a reflective insulate sleeve on the line, however, after 2,000 mi it was obvious that those headers do get hot and the insulation needed to be replaced and protected.

I'm pretty certain this doesn't come close to Brent's meticulous work, but it's out of sight being under the car [8D]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/P1010138b.JPG

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[gasman]

Dear Phil, "Warning Will Robinson" if you ever attend a Unique Homecoming, the first thing they do is turn you car upside down to look at it.

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[pgermond]

Gasman,

You never know what you will find when you lift up the skirt :D:D:D:D:D

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Buzz]

Happy new year guys!
What about the question regarding the use of braided flex line in place of the hard lines in our brake systems? I've heard of others using them in Cobras. Are there any real good reasons why not? From bleeding my front brakes I know that the flex lines do "flex" under applied pressure. Would this in itself be a problem or can one just secure the line every few inches to compensate?

Tropical Buzz

[K.Wilson]

When I lived in Minnesota we called it the "Big Coat Surprise"
Keith

[daveg]

I would also like to hear other's thoughts about flex verses hard lines. Alan did think the "flex" in the flex line would be an issue with using it for the whole line. (Brakes or Clutch)

I am away from the car this weekend (skiing in Utah - have to make something good out of this snow) - looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

Dave

[K.Wilson]

I have always been of the opinion that the less flex line you use the better. Flex line does just that; if you watch it during a brake application it "flexes" or tries to straighten out when the pressure is applied. Long pieces of flex line can cause a "spungy" feeling brake pedal.
To help prevent this I only use flex line where nothing else will work, ie. brake line attached to the frame, flex line attached to the caliper. Everywhere else I make (cut and double flare) rigid line.
The other reason is cost, rigid line is only about 10% the cost of flex line, even less if you count the cost of the fittings.
Keith

[pgermond]

I don't know about the flex with brakes, but I did use a 12" section with the clutch line. The only way I could get a reduced radius 90 out of the slave was to use a section of flex with a built-in 90. They don't make a male inverted flare fitting in a 90 that I could connect to a hard line. I used a 1/4" female/3/8" male coming out of the slave to the 3/8" female 90 on the flex.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Brent]

Here you go.

I can post more pics when I get a change, however, other than the master cylinders and the heat shield everything else is hidden under the carpet. I can take pics of the inside of the footbox area behind the pedals this weekend.



http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/Brent/16620dscn0417.jpg



PM me your fax # and I will fax the diagram to you. It gets too blurry when I drop the resolution below 100 and try to load them.


http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/Brent/Top View.jpg



http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/Brent/Side View.jpg

[pgermond]

Brent - Cool & very clean! Wish I had seen this when I was at this particular stage of my build. I'm not prepared to rip up my carpets at this point in time, but perhaps in the future.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[gasman]

Phil, It didn't cost much to redo the carpet on the driver's side. This is really a nice way to clean up the engine compartment. Brent, thanks again. Mine almost turned out as nice as yours!

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[daveg]

Finally getting around to updating this with what I did on mine. I wanted to wait until we got the brake and clutch lines working and tested on the road (just in case).

I ended up just using the hard line approach (impatience mostly) and taking a different route through the footbox.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/daveg/Cobra Updates - Clutch and Brake Lines 001.jpg

Rear Brake and clutch went over the footbox and through at the firewall/tunnel junction.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/daveg/Cobra Updates - Clutch and Brake Lines 002.jpg

Then down to the right of the driver.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/daveg/Cobra Updates - Clutch and Brake Lines 003.jpg

Front brake line when straigh through by the pedals

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/daveg/Cobra Updates - Clutch and Brake Lines 004.jpg

wrapped with heat insulation and then out to connect to the front brakes

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/daveg/Cobra Updates - Clutch and Brake Lines 005.jpg

I should have been able to do all of them with a single line (60" for the rear brakes should do it). Bender and Flange tool were the only tools (Hanger to test that first bend ).

Brent's approach looked cleaner but I liked not having to adjust connections behind the pedals (I was having a hard time fitting in there).

[rdorman]

Flex lines should be kept to a minimum for a variety of reasons. When you do use them use -3 teflon lined braided lines. My lines are routed over top the foot box and down the tunnel like some of the pictures posted. I have never had a issue.
Rick