rear wheel questions

[dmiller]

removed the tires today, thought i'd chk bolts for tightness under car, grease, etc.

i found two problems with the driver's side rear wheel assembly. hope you can help.

first, a few of the wheel studs were loose in the bearing housing plate that the tire's rim bolts to. these studs are threaded into a disk that attaches to the jag rear end aluminum casting and drive half shaft. i'm not sure that my termonolgy is correct.


i'll get some nuts to use as jam nuts and tighten the studs back into the plate, but that seems to be a poor method, the studs can back out leaving one with nothing holding the tire/rim on the rear. i think American studs are pressed into from the back side and can not come out allowing the tire rim to fall off.


and second problem, the jag's aluminum housing that the suspension is attached to, the grease was coming out of an opening in the top of the aluminum housing. the passenger side had a small cover over this hole. there was plenty of grease in the housing, but how does one add? i didn't see a fitting except for the universal jount inside the housing that the 1/2 drives shaft attaches to. do you just pump grease into this hole on the top of the housing, where i'm missing the cover?

if these descriptions are too confusing with my poor understanding of the correct termonolgy, i'll post photos.

thanks

doug



http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/dmiller/DSCN2925.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/dmiller/DSCN2926.JPG

[Poorboy]

Doug,
There should be a small steel cap in the hole. You just shoot grease in the hole and replace the cap. Shouldn't have to grease it more than once every couple of years. The studs when installed new they are staked from the back side. If you can screw them out they have probly been replaced, use some red Locktite on them and tighten them back up.

[dmiller]

two of my studs are stripped and need new heilcoils or a whole new unit. starting trying to remove the wheel hub, and to my suprise found that the aluminum housing is coming also. so stopped to await more insight. some of the studs were staked on the back side, but not all!

i found a 3/4 inch hole cover at home depot that will fit the hole in the aluminum housing just right. put some more grease in there and its covered now.

i appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the hub from the housing, or at least knowing that the housing is supposed to come off with the hub.

thanks

doug

[Poorboy]

Doug,
The hub will try and come with the drive flange. Use a slide hammer if you have one or can borrow one. Put the slide hammer on the wheel studs, hold the top of the hub with one hand and snatch the drive hub out with the slide hammer. You can replace the studs with ones that press in from the back. Mesure the length that sticks out from the flange & the thickness of the flange, that will give you the lenght you will need. You have to be carefull about the thickness of the head of the stud as it can hit the alumminum hub.

[clayfoushee]

I had the same problem with one stud which sheared off last winter and had to have one hole heliocoiled. I also found another one loose from the back. I used red locktite and tightned it back up.

Worst case the hubs aren't that expensive and Wilwood has new hubs and studs in stock (805) 388-5434 or 388-1188.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (452.1-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[dmiller]

poorboy,

i've got the aluminum casting swinging freely about the long pivot shaft that faces forward and backwards at the bottom of the aluminum casting. the male drive spline is out of the female spline. this long pivot shaft is difficult to remove, i'd planned to get some washers and a full thread nut and try to "screw" it off. if it was out of the car, it looks like i could drill the existing studs out, and in place put new ones in from the back side like you suggest.

the drive hub shows no inclination to come out of the bearings that are in the aluminum casting. but i don't see any kind of race nut holding it in place. if i see it correctly, the drive hub that has the wheels studs is all part of the female spline piece that is also the spindle in the bearings. is that correct?

i appreciate your suggestions, i sure need them. and anyone else. Clay, knowing that the part is available is a relief. thanks.

thanks.

doug

[Poorboy]

Doug,
Yes the drive hub is as you said. The only thing holding it in is the inner bearing. It is just pressed on the drive hub from the back side of the alumminum hub. Here are some pictures that might help.http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/poorboy/MVC-001S.JPG
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/poorboy/MVC-002S.JPG
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/poorboy/MVC-003S.JPG
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/poorboy/MVC-004S.JPG

[dmiller]

poorboy,

do you have any suggestions on how to pull the pivot shaft, the one that the housing rotates about, its a long shaft and i havn't been able to move it with a soft hammer.

i plan to get some full nuts and washers and try "screwing" it off tomorrow, unless you have a better suggestion.

thanks

doug

[eliminator]

Doug,

That hole you plugged also acts as a vent. The original piece that goes in there has a small vent hole in it. Don't plug the hole up, if so it will force the grease out in other area's. These vent plugs should be easy to come by.

Rick
#4279405

[jhaynie]

Does everyone have to scroll back and forth across the screen to view this thread, or is it just my computer?

Unique 289FIA #9367
351W Fuel Injected

[will butterworth]

i knock the bolt out from front toward the rear, have had same trouble you have. Have had bearings in rear replaced twice, i do it. Haven,t been torquing them -the big nut on end of shaft enough , someone instructed me to torq. to 140 ft.pds. I did on the last change-so far so good.Left rear hub. When you knock bolt out be careful not to rough threads while you knock it on thru. Good luck, think i will get my tools and work on something, hammer , kick and cuss a little.Motto of a mechanic.

[dmiller]

i talked to Allen, who graciously offered to replace the entire hub assembly.

i removed the long pivot shaft today, it was very tight, i got a 5/8-18 hex nut, several washers and some various lengths of tubing and "screwed" the shaft out, it didn't give up until the last 1/2 inch.

thanks for the info on the torque required for the hub bearing nut. 140 ft lbs. that's a lot.

what are the wheel studs supposed to be torqued to. i think i was using 70 ft. lbs.

thanks to all that helped, and once again Unique for being such a good manufacturer.

have a good holiday.

doug

[clayfoushee]

Doug,

That sounds right. Compomotive also recommends 70lbs. on the lugs for aluminum wheels.

John,

Whenever large pictures are posted on a thread, it exceeds the normal width, and we're all having to scroll back and forth. Don't panic, it's NOT your computer.:D

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (452.1-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[dmiller]

what is the "optimum" size for the pictures so that i'll know in the future, hate to have caused inconvience for members.

doug

[KrAzEcJ]

Poorboys pictures are not to big, he just didnt hit his enter key to return
before he uploaded his next picture. Your pictures are fine Doug. See how yours are stacked? Now look at Poorboys.

Unique 4279459

[rdorman]

While we are on the topic.............. One of my rear hubs has some slop in it. What is a good source for rebuilt hubs?
Thanks
Rick

[dmiller]

rdorman,

here is a source that discusses the rear hub "play" and the correct spacers.
{ http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/ }

seems like good information.

doug

[jhaynie]

Fixing the slop in the rear hubs requires special shims and tools. Best bet is to find a Jaguar mechanic who will work on it.

JOhn

Unique 289FIA #9367
351W Fuel Injected