Clutch pedal stop

[Scott McDowell]

I have a hydraulic throwout bearing and need to build a clutch pedal stop. I was wondering what type of pedal stops people are using. Are you able to adjust it, how did you mount it to the foot box?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Scott

[rdorman]

A bolt through the foot box with a washer and nut on both sides works well.
Rick

[homer]

I think I have a similar set up -- the standard slave cylinder from Unique -- having read the clutch adjustment thread I went to readjust the clutch last night because the rod from the cylinder was up tight against the clutch fork -- once I adjusted it for a bit of gap with the fork pulled toward the front of the car a couple of pumps of the pedal resulted in the rod in the original tight position against the fork without a gap. The fork does not have a return spring and has about 1" or so of free travel front and back (by hand with no resistance). The clutch pedal will go the full distance to the floor and I have not had a problem shifting. To scott's point above, is a clutch stop necessary? how does one know that the clutch is adjusted properly if no gap is possible with the clutch engaged?

[rdorman]

I would have a return spring on both the fork and pedal. Not really required and they don't have to be very stiff. As for the stop, as long as the volume of the master cylinder and slave cylinder (area x stroke) are the same, you don't have to have one. But, they are nice. If the total volume of the master cylinder exceeds the slave I would consider them a must so you are not blowing slaves all the time. Once against the stop you know that the clutch is disengaged and it is time to shift. Less wasted movement, more sure. And you avoid the possibility of over centering the plate (do pressure plates still do this?).
Rick

[homer]

Should the clutch fork move easily or have some bit of restriction?

[Jim Harding]

Pedal stop, if you have a hydraulic throw out bearing, they are considered mandatory. External (set up like Rick mentioned) shouldn't be needed.

Return springs... really not needed in most cases, but will keep the free play noticable and keep the throw out bearing off the clutch fingers. Some master cylinders could use some help pulling the cylinder back past the reservoir inlet.

Homer, the clutch fork should move fairly easy up to the point where the TOB contacts the clutch fingers. The free play we mention is the tiny distance between the slave cylinder push rod and the fork when the TOB touches the pressure plate's fingers. A 1/16 to 1/8 inch will ensure the bearing does not constantly lay on the clutch plate fingers and wear it out prematurely.

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[homer]

I am a bit confused -- when I intitially set up the rod coming out of the slave cylinder I have adjusted it so that I have 1/8 - 1/4 inch of a gap. Once I use the clutch pedal the rod is in constant contact with the fork with some degree of pressure. Prior to adjusting the rod from the slave cylinder the clutch fork moves freely back and forth about an inch or so. Noted previously once it is adjusted the fork will not move by hand at all.

[Poorboy]

Homer,
You will get that with out a return spring. Part of the reason for the return spring is to return slave cylinder piston all the way back.

Poorboy